I receive many emails from fly anglers most everyday on all types of topics. Many of them are questions on rod selection for different applications, or the type of water they intend to fish. I always take the time to answer such emails, and it’s not for increased business, it’s just the type of person I am – I like to help others, always have. Just that simple act alone has given me an honest reputation with the fly fishing community that I am very proud of. When my dad got me started in the early 70’s our family was just making ends meet, we didn’t have the funds to buy excessive amounts of fly fishing gear. Waders? No way, we used cut off Levi’s, and dad also glued carpet to the bottom of worn Converse All-Star high top sneakers for wading boots. We completed our outfit with machine sewn homemade fishing vests too.
Our rods were Fenwick fiberglass models, the yellow ones (I
don’t remember the model number). My rod was a 7 foot 5wt. My dad had the
longer models in 5 and 7 weights, which is all he used while fishing for trout
and steelhead, and it’s all he needed. We caught so many fish with those rods
matched with Pflueger reels, and the Cortland 444 weight forward Peach line.
Since I had only one rod, my dad taught me how to get the most out of that rod
by using different techniques and casting platforms while practicing on the
lawn, and most importantly on the water – fishing. Fly fishing is a perishable
skill, the more you go, the more you know, and your progression rate rises
sharply towards the top.
In today’s world we have the availability to select a rod,
reel, and line for every type of condition, technique, and species of fish
we target. An endless sea of choices from multiple manufacturers. While I raced
motocross there was a saying the old timers had, “Run what ya brung.” I use
that same theme with my students for the equipment they already own. Learn your
rod’s characteristics by fishing with it as much as possible, and know those
subtleties well, including the good, and not so good. Personal preference is an important factor in the equation.
What works for Larry, doesn’t necessarily work for Kim. There are 9 different
ways to achieve the same goal in fly fishing, choose the one that best suits
your style or needs.
I do not get paid by any rod companies as a representative,
or as an ambassador, and I don’t own a fly shop selling rods either. I have
chosen the rods listed below (most of these are in my own personal quiver) by
having the personal experience of casting them at trade shows, and coming to my
own conclusions to what’s best for me when fishing for trout and steelhead. I
still think the most important aspect of owning and using a rod is to simply
become one with it through different fishing experiences. The rod you fish is
your best friend, and you should know every little detail about it.
Creeks/Small Water:
Redington Classic Trout 8" 6" 3wt
Sage Dart 7' 6" 0wt.
With a lighter weight rod, you will be able to feel the weight of a small trout much more while fighting it. This results in an increased level of fun! You would think shorter is better for the creeks, which is true on those that are choked with heavy brush. How about a more open piece of small water where the length of the rod can be longer? A longer rod equals in providing a greater reaching distance, and providing more pockets to pick from one location. The 7 footer, or the 9 footer? Split the difference.
All Rounder: (Trout)
Redington Vice 9' 5wt
Orvis Helios 3 ~ 9' 5wt.
Scott Radian 9' 5wt.
Sage X 9' 5wt.
Multi-functional…a rod that does it all, and does most
everything well. From nymphing (indo, tight line), dry flies, streamers, to stillwaters.
The most used rod that fits this title is the tried and true 9 foot 5 weight. Each
manufacturer’s all rounder model will have advantages and disadvantages over
another company’s all in one. If you can fish your buddy’s rod that you are
really interested in, even better as you can spend time with it in real time
conditions. This type of rod is usually the first rod most every new fly angler
buys.
What defines a good dry fly rod is one that flows smoothly
while casting resulting in a gentler presentation with medium to extra small
flies. These rods will also have a softer tip to protect break offs on the
initial hook set, especially those explosive takes and runs with larger fish. Glass
rods are some of the best dry fly rods available even though they are not
popular anymore.
Tight Line/High Stick Nymphing:
Shadow X 10' 6" 4wt.
Sage ESN 10' 6" 3wt.
A key factor in a modern Tight Line Nymphing rod is having
greater sensitivity in the tip section. With a more sensitive tip, the user
will be able to feel the fly ticking on the bottom, and also strike detection
(the grab) from a fish. You can also see the subtle movements on your sighter
section of your leader, which again will aid you in detecting strikes. Current
TLN rods are much longer, some up to 11.5 feet which really help to reach out
further, and target areas that are far off.
Streamers/Big Stillwaters:
Sage Igniter 9' 5wt.
My favorite big stillwater rod ~ Sage XP 10' 7wt.
Two characteristics I look for when choosing a streamer rod,
or for big stillwaters is a rod with a strong butt section for fighting large
apex predatory trout, and the ease of casting larger fly patterns at a greater
distance, with minimal effort. Being able to punch 60 feet out into the wind is
another great quality of these super-fast action rods, especially on the wide open
flats like Eagle Lake.
Each one of these rods will handle differently depending on
your line choice, and even the actual weight of the reel you choose which can
affect the balance of that particular rod set up. Rod reviews on the internet,
firsthand experience from your fishing buddies, and the right local fly shop
can all help in your decision making. In the end though, adapting to the
equipment you have to work with, is often the best solution to your rod
selection questions.
Run what you brung…
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